cont'd —

Willowy, parched grass blanketed most of the landscape as the truck inched along at a snail's pace. A rustling sound rose in several directions and magically before our eyes seven cheetah appeared unannounced, as if the drone of the truck's engine chimed "dinner is ready."

Parading several paces behind our vehicle, their citrus colored eyes appeared to be on fire from the glare of the setting sun. Heads bowed low, they showed no signs of fear or alarm, but more a sense of anticipation and curiosity towards their new visitors.

Clutching a sky-blue pail containing slabs of fresh donkey meat, Mario stood in front of them, like a maestro about to conduct a magnificent performance. Wild or otherwise these animals knew he was undoubtedly the one in charge. Cheetahs brash enough, slinked forward vying for the best position in preclude of the delicate feast to come.

A flurry of camera shutters was drowned out only by the delirious symphony of growls and hisses, as the meat was tossed like a cumbersome Frisbee. With unbridled speed and the grace of an Olympic gymnast, the boldest of the pack snatched the wedge of meat before it even hit the ground, retreating quickly back into the grass and disappearing under it's cover.

Mario continues this volley until each cheetah had been fed, then boards his truck driving us to another part of the property where the ritual is repeated.

Returning to the campsite, the luxury of an outside bar on the campgrounds is a fitting location to end an unforgettable day. Here you can also find Mario serving his guests and it’s a chance to share your experience with fellow travellers and understand what more the family is doing to help these animals facing extinction.

With their current mission to increase the animal enclosure to 7000 hectares and establish a Nation Park, funds needed to build a new “cheetah proof fence” are coming mostly from outside donations. Travellers provide the bulk of this money and it’s not uncommon to see several large overland trucks parked at one of the seven campsites with a sea of tents blanketing the grass like newly blossomed flowers.

So it's also reassuring to know that your money is well spent here as it goes directly back into the caring and feeding of the cheetahs. Extra incentive to drink up.

For all the good the Nel family is doing to these endangered animals, time is not on their side. Legislation passed in July 2001 by the Namibian government has declared that all captive cheetahs be sterilized, a decision made with little thought to the longevity of the animal. With an average life span between seven and twelve years they could be gone from Namibia within a decade.

As night falls, a symphony of hidden creatures begin their serenade throughout the campsite, and it wasn't long before we found ourselves also in need of a meal. The roaring campfire and the smell of food, unique only to cooking outdoors, gave us our own sense of anticipation.

With the sky above radiating a thousand of points of light, the southern cross hung low near a milky-way so vibrant you could almost read a book by it. Yet, only yards away behind the enclosure, the grass rustles as shapes move in the night. You can't help but wonder if staring back from the darkness, a cheetah sits, waiting for answers about it's uncertain future.

— July 2001

Information about visiting the cheetah farm:
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